Compost is the foundation of productive organic gardening. It improves soil structure, adds slow-release nutrients, increases water retention, and feeds the beneficial organisms that make nutrients available to plants.

For market gardeners, good compost can reduce or eliminate the need for purchased fertilizers, lowering your costs and increasing profits. It also improves the flavor and nutrition of your produce - something your LocalRoots customers will notice and appreciate.

Plus, composting keeps valuable organic materials out of landfills, where they produce methane (a potent greenhouse gas) instead of returning nutrients to the earth.

Composting is controlled decomposition. To work efficiently, you need the right balance of:

Greens (Nitrogen-rich materials): - Fresh grass clippings - Kitchen vegetable scraps - Coffee grounds - Fresh plant trimmings - Manure from herbivores

Browns (Carbon-rich materials): - Dried leaves - Straw or hay - Cardboard (torn small) - Wood chips or sawdust - Dried plant stalks

The ideal ratio is 25-30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen by weight, roughly translating to 3-4 parts browns to 1 part greens by volume. Too much green = smelly, slimy mess. Too much brown = slow decomposition.

Size matters: Aim for at least 3x3x3 feet. Smaller piles don't generate enough heat. Larger is fine.

Location: Partial shade, convenient to kitchen and garden. Level ground with good drainage.

The layering method: 1. Start with a 6-inch layer of coarse browns (sticks, stalks) for airflow 2. Add 3-4 inches of greens 3. Add 6-8 inches of browns 4. Sprinkle with water (like a wrung-out sponge) 5. Repeat layers until pile is complete 6. Top with browns to reduce odors and pests

Optional but helpful: Add a shovelful of finished compost or garden soil between layers to introduce decomposing organisms.

Hot Composting (3-4 weeks to 3 months): - Requires active management - Pile heats to 130-160°F - Kills weed seeds and pathogens - Turn pile when temperature drops (every 3-7 days initially) - Produces finished compost faster

Cold Composting (6 months to 2 years): - Passive approach - just add materials - Pile never heats significantly - May not kill weed seeds - No turning required - Eventually produces same quality compost

For market gardeners producing lots of crop waste, hot composting makes sense. For small-scale home use, cold composting is perfectly fine.

Pile smells bad: Too much nitrogen (greens) or too wet. Add browns and turn to incorporate air.

Pile isn't heating: Too small, too dry, or not enough nitrogen. Check size, add water, and/or add greens.

Pile attracts pests: Bury food scraps in the center, cover with browns, and avoid meat/dairy.

Taking forever: Chop materials smaller, ensure moisture is right, add more greens, or turn more frequently.

Matted leaves/grass not decomposing: These form layers that block air. Mix in with browns and fluff the pile.

Compost is ready when it's dark, crumbly, and smells earthy - not like its original ingredients.

In beds and borders: Spread 1-2 inches on top annually. No need to dig in - worms will incorporate it.

For transplanting: Add a handful to each planting hole.

As mulch: A 2-3 inch layer suppresses weeds and feeds soil.

For potting mix: Mix with perlite and peat/coir for container growing.

Compost tea: Steep finished compost in water for 24-48 hours, then use the liquid to water plants for a nutrient boost.

Store excess in bags or a covered bin. It keeps indefinitely when protected from rain.